tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91881813545798038882024-03-02T17:39:18.351-05:00Foley FilerThis blog is the internet's best source of information about Foley and Foley-Belsaw automatic hand saw filers, saw retoothers, saw setters, and other Foley and Belsaw sharpening equipment. It's also a resource for locating used saw filers, retoothers, and setters. There are free downloads of out-of-print owner's manuals, links to manuals for sale by Foley Belsaw, other obscure saw sharpeners, and vintage file catalogs from Disston, Heller, Nicholson, and Simonds. Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-18338705460221528062019-06-02T14:26:00.002-04:002021-10-02T14:29:47.594-04:00Instruction Manuals Now on Vintage MachineryThe links on the right have changed for scanned Foley, Belsaw, and Foley-Belsaw instruction manuals and advertising. Everything that I had links for here is now on <a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx">Vintage Machinery</a>. Please use the new links on the right to view and download these manuals.<br />
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Some scans of Foley advertising will be going to <a href="https://archive.org/search.php?query=creator%3A%22Foley+Manufacturing+Co.%22">Archive.org</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgAJEZof1fWR_w9ibVdNI_y4J8wB7dyLKpcsQm4nQREEbgcEA4v3WlA4KSdfYpG3MFKk8JcaOAqU2pPmLxyRFGhp502GNjn363O1Xl68gbfYPUAGdoyDvBI4RPPZ0Bum2T8tNdmuerSvg/s1600/Foley+manuals+2019-06-02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="1263" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgAJEZof1fWR_w9ibVdNI_y4J8wB7dyLKpcsQm4nQREEbgcEA4v3WlA4KSdfYpG3MFKk8JcaOAqU2pPmLxyRFGhp502GNjn363O1Xl68gbfYPUAGdoyDvBI4RPPZ0Bum2T8tNdmuerSvg/s320/Foley+manuals+2019-06-02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-14482350404721708812018-06-01T12:53:00.002-04:002021-05-12T14:52:28.518-04:00Ideal and Peerless Lawnmower Sharpener Catalog and Manual Now Available <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHtHEFIvWaTKOLkd0Um6-jM7gYSp4caD7qmzFkLb1E2j2UoeUPJjCiGPqWAE7_fl75OCZqZb08v5VSM995DtQPh0LoXES352LHmtCh93a5rg3J_GPl9jsZyGLPXMQMoAT-Oh5va3ojV8/s1600/Ideal+and+Peerless+Lawnmower+Sharpeners+31st+Ed_0000.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="822" data-original-width="634" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHtHEFIvWaTKOLkd0Um6-jM7gYSp4caD7qmzFkLb1E2j2UoeUPJjCiGPqWAE7_fl75OCZqZb08v5VSM995DtQPh0LoXES352LHmtCh93a5rg3J_GPl9jsZyGLPXMQMoAT-Oh5va3ojV8/s400/Ideal+and+Peerless+Lawnmower+Sharpeners+31st+Ed_0000.jpg" width="307" /></a>There are now several scanned items for the Ideal and Peerless sharpeners by the Fate-Root-Heath Co. on <a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=3991&tab=3" target="_blank">Vintage Machinery</a>. I will be adding more as I obtain them.<br />
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Also, I am looking for scanned instruction manuals for the BeMaCo saw filer by Beaver Manufacturing Co. of Inglewood, CA. Their saw setter manual is on <a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=9442&tab=3">Vintage Machinery</a>.Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-70370667481781679182016-02-22T17:09:00.001-05:002020-08-18T21:37:42.550-04:00Chart for Foley 357 Carbide Grinder This large chart shows how to set hook and top clearances on the Foley Model 357 Carbide Grinder. This comes from John Wilson, a member of our Facebook group, thank you.<br />
<a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=20489" target="_blank">Link to chart</a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-58406910057168583522016-01-04T17:33:00.004-05:002021-10-02T14:42:57.153-04:00Wardwell Saw Filers and Saw Grinders<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8oaZx6J9yxgd23KhO3c8QqFFoce162QhD0Y6SDXrS8oA9m-qfhofNBpfvcZvqKYorFDcOYMc4xX1CACo2lMlMYV1p90QY2uKzT88WQ1dEKjv_umRM2pOY1yA-fcaNKp0PAxpnKAKgl6g/s1600/The+Wood-Worker%252C+July+1920.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8oaZx6J9yxgd23KhO3c8QqFFoce162QhD0Y6SDXrS8oA9m-qfhofNBpfvcZvqKYorFDcOYMc4xX1CACo2lMlMYV1p90QY2uKzT88WQ1dEKjv_umRM2pOY1yA-fcaNKp0PAxpnKAKgl6g/s320/The+Wood-Worker%252C+July+1920.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google Books</td></tr>
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<a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=820&tab=0" target="_blank">Wardwell Manufacturing Co.</a> of Cleveland, Ohio made band saw filers, saw grinders, saw setters, and other machinery. It began as a partnership between Frank Wellington Wardwell, Jr. (1878-1954) and Hugh B. Foley, inventor of the Foley saw filer. Foley-Wardwell Manufacturing Co. incorporated in 1912 in Cleveland. Despite their similar interests, the men separated about 2 years later, and the company changed names to Wardwell Manufacturing Co. In 1956 they were located at 3812 Ridge Rd., Cleveland, OH. The Wardwell Automatic Circular Saw Grinder Model 57T was sold at Leland-Gifford Products in Akron, OH until recently.<br />
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Frank Wardwell had <a href="https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=pts&q=ininventor%3AFrank+Wardwell&oq=ininventor%3AFrank+Wardwell&gs_l=serp.12...4064.16125.0.18225.16.16.0.0.0.0.156.1728.0j15.15.0....0...1.1.64.serp..16.0.0.KSL6RXoZbtg" target="_blank">at least 9 US patents.</a> This Google Books link is to a <a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=cIY-AQAAMAAJ&lpg=PA666&ots=PATXLeODV5&dq=wardwell%20sharpener&pg=PA666#v=onepage&q&f=false" target="_blank">1915 article</a> about Wardwell's metal cutting band saw sharpener, a much more sophisticated machine than Foley's saw filer at the time. I have scanned <a href="https://archive.org/details/wardwell-mfg-co-catalog-no-48" target="_blank">Wardwell's Catalog No. 48</a>.<br />
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Some of Wardwell's filers used double-ended tapered saw files. I learned of the company from an eBay listing for files stamped "WARDWELL".<br />
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Here is <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3EUFnNH1Qs" target="_blank">a recent YouTube video</a> of a Wardwell circular saw grinder running.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOrdRmRQHbYfvOqcHJ60AvEawciIt9X92TOyVGTvCQG5_RwZBghQTLAl9RsetZjNYtK6qqULVbChyphenhyphen7GyPUdQDLbmPKpcWk7ytD7bqDqiQaZ1wtJlEdmoaHMhA2zSknOVf7H8pZlQG8P8/s1600/The+Wood-Worker%252C+Feb+1921.jpg" style="clear: left; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOrdRmRQHbYfvOqcHJ60AvEawciIt9X92TOyVGTvCQG5_RwZBghQTLAl9RsetZjNYtK6qqULVbChyphenhyphen7GyPUdQDLbmPKpcWk7ytD7bqDqiQaZ1wtJlEdmoaHMhA2zSknOVf7H8pZlQG8P8/s400/The+Wood-Worker%252C+Feb+1921.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google Books</td></tr>
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-33990550153901886652015-10-24T09:15:00.000-04:002015-10-24T09:16:06.153-04:00Wanted - Instruction Manual For Foley Modern Sharpener Model 364950<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCQtSpXxUMkBv9EsFbUUBy1k4tkrvdsJ2tWljBRzeEwGkJMsU_6xj9NJp1zJoqO15Qz2RGyNq0tGanBRvB-xkZm5zO8p7Y2kZJ6sEI3MvCHDjUy2KT8TUJuj-Dbhxyz4XcwjQTmHkumw/s1600/Foley+Modern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCQtSpXxUMkBv9EsFbUUBy1k4tkrvdsJ2tWljBRzeEwGkJMsU_6xj9NJp1zJoqO15Qz2RGyNq0tGanBRvB-xkZm5zO8p7Y2kZJ6sEI3MvCHDjUy2KT8TUJuj-Dbhxyz4XcwjQTmHkumw/s320/Foley+Modern.jpg" width="205" /></a>A reader needs an instruction manual for this machine. He contacted Foley United and they don't have one. Please contact him here <a href="mailto:andy.collins@cmug.com" target="_blank">(email link)</a>.<br />
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-60573402459656399482015-05-30T09:41:00.002-04:002015-07-28T20:56:49.447-04:00Now on Facebook (updated post)I have set up a Facebook group, to which any member can add or approve members. You do not have to be a "friend" to join the group. For now, this is an open group, meaning "Anyone can see the group, who's in it, and what members post."<br />
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To join just click on request to join on Facebook, or send me an email via Contact Me on this site. Activity in the group has just picked up (July 2015). It's a good way to ask questions, look for parts, and share your finds. I'm checking Facebook daily.<br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/215796871946901/" target="_blank">Foley Belsaw Saw Filer User Group</a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-21906793263511555612015-01-15T20:27:00.000-05:002015-01-19T08:43:41.456-05:00What is Foley equipment worth?What is Foley equipment worth? For saw filers, setters, and non-carbide grinders, less than some sellers think these machines are worth.<br />
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For retoothers, they may be worth more than some sellers think, but only if they have ratchet bars. Here are "sold listings" US eBay prices since October 2014, <u>without</u> shipping:<br />
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$100 5 ratchet bars only<br />
$165 5 ratchet bars only<br />
$165 another 5 ratchet bars only<br />
$200 retoother, 5 ratchet bars, 5 saw carriers<br />
$250 retoother, 6 ratchet bars, 3 saw carriers, plus Model 200 filer, power setter, grinder<br />
$335 retoother, 5 ratchet bars, 4 saw carriers, all very clean<br />
$590 retoother, 7 ratchet bars, 3 saw carriers<br />
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There were several sales of retoothers without bars or saw carriers, but theses are not included because we do not know if the buyers realized what they were <u>not</u> getting.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_nkw=foley+retoother&_sop=3" target="_blank">This is the search.</a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-58390021223832831902014-01-06T15:45:00.001-05:002014-01-07T18:57:31.029-05:00One of the oldest known Foley Saw Filers sold on eBay 1/6/2014<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-FOLEY-FILING-JOINTING-MACHINE-2012-PAT-8-6-01-12-11-06-/281234650005?">eBay listing</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">This is the oldest Foley Saw Filer I have found for sale, and one of its patents predates Foley, below. This machine, like the other early Foleys, were for filing band saws. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Patent US 679748, issued Aug. 6, 1901, Jacob E. Hillstrom, Michigan City, IN</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="https://www.google.com/patents/US679748?">https://www.google.com/patents/US679748?</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Patent US <span style="line-height: 14px;">837922, issued December 11, 1906, Hugh B. Foley</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 14px;"><a href="https://www.google.com/patents/US837922?">https://www.google.com/patents/US837922?</a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 14px;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwbd76n3t6TPoGTbhyphenhyphenBCnWEPbCu1wgdSIEIBf_t5GnUxDZndeuvIi46cnBwq31Cpxjs6ime-IPajOaCJTQSFa_02otcttkZfJ9L2Q7un-jTBrhUPIa3XJKU3u6A2sKjTc4BzWeIcDqBuU/s1600/$_57.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwbd76n3t6TPoGTbhyphenhyphenBCnWEPbCu1wgdSIEIBf_t5GnUxDZndeuvIi46cnBwq31Cpxjs6ime-IPajOaCJTQSFa_02otcttkZfJ9L2Q7un-jTBrhUPIa3XJKU3u6A2sKjTc4BzWeIcDqBuU/s1600/$_57.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-G5iD_DOAbxeMNA4Con_nL6Dg-F1kMGG8FzL0rcSVEPuy4-J08pckqXKoiaKc8KXUyy1YJGHp_FvlHoCHr99XTInFk0xPA2NaZqM-1Tg6Sf1-TYp1huWSwcnv22X030hyJLii2XUJxg/s1600/$_57+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-G5iD_DOAbxeMNA4Con_nL6Dg-F1kMGG8FzL0rcSVEPuy4-J08pckqXKoiaKc8KXUyy1YJGHp_FvlHoCHr99XTInFk0xPA2NaZqM-1Tg6Sf1-TYp1huWSwcnv22X030hyJLii2XUJxg/s1600/$_57+(3).jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 14px;"><br /></span></span>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-88504333417334073842014-01-01T14:08:00.003-05:002014-01-01T14:08:22.908-05:00Foley videos on YouTube and elsewhereA recent web search found some new and better videos of Foley equipment in use. Here's a good one by Chris Schwarz, showing Tom Calisto cutting backsaw teeth on a hand-cranked Foley retoother at The Woodwright's School. While you are at it, search YouTube for Chris Schwarz's many videos on sharpening and woodworking.<br />
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<a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/movie-cutting-saw-teeth-hand-cranked-retoother">http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/movie-cutting-saw-teeth-hand-cranked-retoother</a><br />
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-35345785372606011832013-12-19T18:41:00.001-05:002019-06-05T10:35:07.048-04:00Instruction manual available for download, Stand-All Model 6 <a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=20500" target="_blank">Stand-All Model 6 Handsaw and Bandsaw Grinder</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorTvXQ3YXmECbQTorGFgZIp4gfp-qUAS7LjWB_CqhI2Q3YdrQlu_UYPaMyUaugoLNSsliMyqfD2E5UmSBYcP2JtiW8hbrnRs_Xwlkq3xQDHU179rI3iTzWaJMra716KAZ_SEmoAyw2wk/s1600/IMG+(989x1280).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorTvXQ3YXmECbQTorGFgZIp4gfp-qUAS7LjWB_CqhI2Q3YdrQlu_UYPaMyUaugoLNSsliMyqfD2E5UmSBYcP2JtiW8hbrnRs_Xwlkq3xQDHU179rI3iTzWaJMra716KAZ_SEmoAyw2wk/s320/IMG+(989x1280).jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This manual is dated January 12, 1950.</td></tr>
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<br />Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-10314639834961232902013-12-16T18:02:00.001-05:002019-06-02T21:59:54.894-04:00The Stand-All Saw Sharpener<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Recently I learned of another mass-produced hand saw sharpener, the Stand-All, and here is what I have learned so far. If you have owned a Stand-All or know more about it, please contact me. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Stanley Elias Matias Standal (1901-1958) was a Spokane, Washington inventor who patented a variety of items,
primarily for industrial woodworking. Standal was a naturalized US citizen born in South Africa, and most of his patents were received in the
early 1950s. His executrix, Elizabeth V. Standal,
continued to apply for and receive patents for his inventions into the 1960s. For example, one patent was for an “inserted saw tooth with
chip deflecting lip”.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">A patent
application gives Standal’s home address as 1302 15th St. (Ave.?) in Spokane, and his business was at 902 Normandie St., Spokane, a former industrial area near
the Spokane River which is now office buildings and parking lots. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Stanley Standal
filed for a patent November 5, 1951 for a “saw tooth forming and sharpening
machine”, and patent number 2,675,717 was awarded April 20, 1954.</span><br />
<a href="https://www.google.com/patents/US2675717" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;" target="_blank">Link to Google Patents</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BXXcVqofRUbsa0HhBzRly83vvSfNIKV4PdnCCiT5KRCBtHy0LtsMLuIrZEPLKlRQgRB3iu9SnlyLWkPGo79uczziehmoZxialg8UE9yvcLTwcxcWVuda7jxTO_ETnkSkpQkhXmlOfhU/s1600/Standal+2675717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BXXcVqofRUbsa0HhBzRly83vvSfNIKV4PdnCCiT5KRCBtHy0LtsMLuIrZEPLKlRQgRB3iu9SnlyLWkPGo79uczziehmoZxialg8UE9yvcLTwcxcWVuda7jxTO_ETnkSkpQkhXmlOfhU/s320/Standal+2675717.jpg" width="261" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Moon's Saw Shop, selling through Amazon, carries the 7" X 1/8" grinding wheels for the Model 7 Stand-All.</span><br />
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Here are photos from an October 2013 Craigslist ad for a Stand-All for sale in Oct. 2013:<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=11195&tab=0" target="_blank">Stand-All on VintageMachinery.org</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://archive.org/details/StandAllModel6/page/n1">Stand-All Model 6 Operating & Maintenance Manual</a><br />
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-90922216258370776992013-09-06T07:24:00.001-04:002013-09-06T07:24:32.244-04:00Movies of Disston saw manufacturing I just located 5 movies from 49 seconds to 2 minutes 2 seconds taken inside the Disston plant in 1920. They show a number of steps in the manufacturing of hand and circular saws, from rolling the plate and tempering to cutting the wheat design and drilling handles. Viewing the video and still photos is free and copies are for sale from $4 and up. I bought the $4 downloads and am happy with them. <br />
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<a href="http://www.criticalpast.com/products/search/?newSearch=1&sort_order=asc&page=2&sort_by=&sort_order=asc&month=&day=&q=disston" target="_blank">Disston movies at CriticalPast.com</a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-16542652382535644562013-01-21T11:02:00.001-05:002019-06-04T10:59:57.298-04:00Foley-Belsaw ManualsMy links for Foley-Belsaw manuals go to Vintage Machinery and the <a href="https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Videos-Manuals-C223.aspx">company's web site</a>* where they are for sale. If I have an old manual that Foley-Belsaw does not, I will scan it and it will be available free at <a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx">Vintage Machinery</a><br />
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If you have an old manual not listed on this site, please <a href="mailto:wvamark21@gmail.com" target="_blank">email</a> me about making it available here. <br />
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Incidentally, later Model 61s are identified as Model 361 on the serial number plate, but there are only minor differences between these filers. Model 361 serial numbers in are in sequence with Model 61s. I have a Model 61 no. 42301 and a Model 361 no. 44097. If you have a Model 361, use the Model 61 manual.<br />
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*Note - as of about April, 2017, Foley-Belsaw's sharpening business was sold to Sharpening Supplies. My links now go to Sharpening Supplies.Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com32tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-87030224696110526412013-01-13T20:01:00.002-05:002013-01-21T22:06:11.022-05:00Black Diamond band saw filerI recently aquired this band saw filer called "The Only" made from Ambler's patent by Black Diamond Saw & Machine Works, Natick, MA.<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucqD9hnTndQ" target="_blank">Black Diamond saw Filer on YouTube</a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-24101924046348753102013-01-06T20:48:00.003-05:002013-01-21T22:25:21.522-05:00Foley-Belsaw Model 387 versus Foley Model 61 saw filer If you are looking for a saw filer and have wondered what the difference between them is, here is a brief comparision. There are the Model 61 and other older ones, the 387 and SF-1000, and the Model 200 which is rare and about which I know next to nothing.<br />
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My experience is with the Model 61, but yesterday I set up a Model 387 to get it ready for a new home soon. I thought the filer had had a little use, but when I plugged it in the motor ran in reverse, so apparently it had not been used at all. After lubrication, making the adjustments, reversing the motor leads, and smoothing a few of the wearing parts that were not broken in, I pulled a few hand saw blades out of the scrap bucket and filed away. Here is what I learned:<br />
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Models 387 and SF-1000 will give fast results with saws that are in good condition, meaning regularly spaced teeth that have previously been competantly filed by hand or machine. If you plan to sharpen for others or otherwise need a quick turnaround, this is the machine. If a saw has been poorly filed and is run through a 387, it will look worse fast. The 387 will file broken teeth as long as the feed pawl can catch something, but otherwise a retoothing is necessary. The 387 or SF-1000 are probably easiest to learn on, and you probably won't break anything on the machine. If you are filing top of the line saws with high carbon steel, the 387 should give faster results. <br />
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Model 61 and earlier are best for saws with any degree of irregularity. With patience and a good file, many saws can be redeemed on a Model 61 without retoothing. The reason is that because of design and wear, there is some side movement in the Model 61's file arm. This allows it to file a tooth that's too large without breaking it. The 387 has zero side play in the file arm so when it lands on a large tooth it will wipe it out. If points per inch are off from one end to the other, the Model 61 will allow you to gradually file the small ones larger and the big ones smaller, as hand filing would. The Model 387 requires lots of care to avoid reducing the odd teeth to stubs. The Model 61 has a weak part, the rocker arm, that will break if the machine jams or the vise is tightened too hard. Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-42910191790392239492013-01-06T19:53:00.000-05:002019-06-05T10:56:09.633-04:00History of Foley-BelsawOver Christmas I wrote and submitted the article below (plus footnotes) to Wikipedia, but it was just turned down for lack of demonstrated significance.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Foley-Belsaw</span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> was a family-owned group of companies that designed, manufactured, and distributed a broad line of sharpening and locksmithing equipment, and sold home study courses for outdoor power equipment repair, locksmithing, and gunsmithing. Company headquarters and primary manufacturing operations were in River Falls, Wisconsin, with additional facilities in Kansas City, Missouri. The companies and divisions included Foley-Belsaw Company, Foley United, Foley United Industrial, and Neary Technologies. Foley Belsaw was a leading United States sharpening equipment manufacturer.<br /><br /><b>Foley history</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Foley’s history began with Hugh B. Foley (1870-1926), an English citizen living in Seattle, Washington who invented a saw filing machine, US Patent number 837,922, issued December 11, 1906. Foley began manufacturing The Foley Saw Filing Machine after applying for the patent January 24, 1906, according to the name plate on an early machine. Foley formed Foley Saw Tool Company to manufacture the saw filing machine. By 1916 Hugh B. Foley was a US citizen living in Minneapolis, Minnesota, and he was granted US Patent number 1,224,293 in 1917 for an improved saw filing machine. Foley continued to invent and patent saw filing and saw setting equipment, with his last patent issued posthumously in 1928.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Walter Ringer purchased Foley Saw Tool Co. in 1926 and continued to develop and manufacture automatic saw filers and related saw setting and retoothing equipment in Minneapolis. In 1929, Ringer changed the name to Foley </span><span style="font-size: 16px;">Manufacturing Co. </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The product line grew to include machines for sharpening everything from ice skates to carbide saw blades, plus key duplication machines. Foley developed training materials to broaden the market for the sharpening machines. Foley also made a line of household kitchen utensils including the Foley food mill, a rolling pin with ball bearings, a rolling cookie and biscuit cutter, and flour sifters. During the post-World War II manufacturing boom Foley briefly produced a small table saw and gasoline powered reel lawn mower. Many of Foley’s machines were the best selling of their type, particularly the automatic saw filer.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Belsaw history</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Belsaw Machinery Co. started in 1928 according to their logo, and they were located in Kansas City, Missouri. Belsaw’s best known machines were the portable sawmill and planer-molder, and they originated the Sharp-All multipurpose grinder and sharpener. Although Belsaw’s product line was smaller than Foley’s, they developed saw sharpening and setting machines that competed with Foley’s equipment.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Combined company history</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Foley and Belsaw merged around 1982 under the Ringer family ownership, now in its third generation. The combined firm eliminated some duplicate products, but continued to manufacture machines developed by both Foley and Belsaw under the new name. Until 2017, its Foley Belsaw division in Kansas City marketed the Foley-Belsaw line of machines for key duplication, scissor sharpening, carbide grinding, knife sharpening, lawnmower sharpening, tool sharpening, chain saw grinding, drill and end mill grinding, honing, and skate grinding. Foley United made sharpening equipment for golf and turf markets. Foley United Industrial made sharpening equipment for industrial woodworking tools. Neary Technologies was founded in the late 1970s by a former Foley employee and purchased by Foley Belsaw in 1998. Neary sold a separate line of sharpening equipment for the golf and turf markets.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><b>Recent history</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman';">As of April, 2017, what was called "Foley Belsaw Sharpening" was purchased from the Ringer family by Wingra Direct LLC, trading as Sharpening Supplies. As of June, 2019, all Foley-Belsaw sharpening machines have been discontinued except for the Model 310-16 carbide saw grinder. Sharpening Supplies sells machinery and supplies from other vendors and some supplies for Foley-Belsaw machines. What was Foley United is now called Foley Company, LLC, with partial Ringer family ownership. </span><span style="font-size: 16px;">Neary Technologies is still also operating as of 2019.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTzY8Yo5E813iyZbsJ1MIbckCXOWqEmAU9T79S3nZeQycRz6RdJI1tyYwDRdn1KGpi-rQu-cJKRLHZ-IFKkDAy40SiraA2TfbTrjKsl1ZzXjxc9anBEw7ZUQH77Y9tr0dyv1sd-aOmdM/s1600/Foley+2019+website.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="1358" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTzY8Yo5E813iyZbsJ1MIbckCXOWqEmAU9T79S3nZeQycRz6RdJI1tyYwDRdn1KGpi-rQu-cJKRLHZ-IFKkDAy40SiraA2TfbTrjKsl1ZzXjxc9anBEw7ZUQH77Y9tr0dyv1sd-aOmdM/s400/Foley+2019+website.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foley Co. LLC website 2019</td></tr>
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-51155025799968769912012-12-25T16:55:00.002-05:002012-12-26T21:05:15.445-05:00Daggett "Machine for Sharpening Handsaws"This is a very different hand saw grinder, patented by Byron G. Daggett, in use at a saw shop in Oregon. It uses an abrasive wheel and does both bevels in one pass. It's amazing to watch. <br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9MXLAc34bY" target="_blank">YouTube of Daggett's hand saw sharpener </a><br />
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<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/US2333298?" target="_blank">Byron G. Daggett 1943 patent</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/US2899847?" target="_blank">Byron G. Daggett 1959 patent</a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-74592906140014721362012-12-24T21:56:00.005-05:002012-12-24T21:56:53.480-05:00A rare Ambler filer-setter, probably for band saws <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2SvOscV2mg" target="_blank">YouTube video of Ambler saw filer</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.google.com/patents?id=00xgAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1&dq=patent:942531&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=1#v=onepage&q&f=false" target="_blank">Ambler filer/setter patent application and drawings via Google </a>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-60382776621312810212012-12-16T10:16:00.000-05:002014-01-07T17:50:54.287-05:00Early Foley Saw Filer<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
Recently a reader sent photos of a very early Foley filer that came from his great-grandparent's homestead in the American West around 1900. He believes that it was used to sharpen butcher's saws in the ranch's slaughterhouse. It will accommodate a saw blade up to 1-5/8 inch wide and uses approximately a 4 inch file. He disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the filer, and says it cranks smoothly. The filer is missing part of the saw vise, but it shouldn't be difficult to make one. As the last photo shows, the name plate lacks a model or patent number, indicating it's probably the first filer Foley produced. <a href="http://www.google.com/patents/US837922?dq=patent:837922&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GCnXUILaDJTa8ATFr4CYAg&ved=0CDwQ6AEwAA" target="_blank">Link to Google Patents for patent application for this machine.</a> </div>
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-64230622294050539672012-12-10T18:53:00.004-05:002021-10-04T12:23:24.360-04:00The Foley Hammer Saw SetIn 1932 Foley was granted <a href="https://patents.google.com/patent/US1851773">US Patent No. 1,851,773</a> for a trip hammer saw set. It must not have been a big seller, and appears to be have been expensive to manufacture. Here is additional patent information: <a href="http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?pn=1851773&id=11207" target="_blank">Directory of American Tool and Machinery Patents</a><br /><br />
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-40924238310558977282012-09-03T23:00:00.002-04:002012-09-03T23:00:55.425-04:00Foley Model 61 Filer Sash Spring Replacement<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The Model 61 saw filer have 2 coil springs that provide a recoil to what Foley calls the cam shaft assembly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently this helps maintain the rotary motion. The springs are number 50 on the parts list, and they fit over the vertical slide rods, parts 51 and 52.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">These springs can break after 50 years, but replacement is easy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove the motor, motor bracket, and flywheel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then take the wing frame off and place it on a workbench.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove the set screws at the bottoms of the slide rods.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Turn the wing frame upside down and carefully drive the slide rods out with a punch or other tool that won’t damage the rods.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tops of the slide rods are knurled for a force fit, and this prevents the rods from being driven through from the top. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">The rods are 5/8” and off-the-shelf 7/8” O.D. x 4” springs were a good fit, but they have a couple fewer coils than the originals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know the original uncompressed length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Fit the springs in position, wipe the rods clean, and slide them back in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use a soft face hammer or center punch to drive the rods the last inch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When they are approximately flush at the top, install the set screws.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">While you have the wing frame off, take a look at the slide block on the other side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s exactly square, so if it has visible wear it can be rotated a quarter turn to eliminate the free play.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The slide block is attached with a reverse-thread shoulder screw.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mine took a little grinding with 400 grit paper to get it to fit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put plenty of grease on it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">Speaking of grease, the flywheel is the only major bearing without an oil cup, so put grease on the shaft before reinstalling it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';">After getting the filer back together, run it by hand enough times to be sure everything’s working correctly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-45172707827100968032012-07-14T20:29:00.003-04:002012-07-14T20:29:35.161-04:00LED Lighting for Saw Filers and the Workshop<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">LED light bulbs are now developed enough to use them in machine lights for saw filers and other task lighting in the workshop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The advantages of LED bulbs are low electricity consumption, long life, durability, and the ability to be turned on and off many times without shortening their lives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition, LEDs are directional lights, which is what you want for a machine light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is why LEDs were used first in flashlights and then in floodlights.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">The machine lights that Foley sold as accessories include these:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Fixed light (socket and shade) for the Model 61 and earlier filers</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Gooseneck light with Bakelite-type shade 4-3/8” I.D. for earlier Model 387 filers</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Gooseneck light with metal shade 3-1/2” I.D. for later Model 387 and SF1000 filers</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Many newer houses have recessed lights that use incandescent or halogen floodlight bulbs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>LED bulbs designed for these fixtures are now widely available, and these are ideal for workshop task lighting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The PAR style bulbs have flat ends, and BR style bulbs have curved ends with a wider beam spread (about 120 degrees).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both styles come in several diameters, as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">PAR16 and BR16 2” diameter</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">PAR20 and BR20 2-1/2” diameter</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">PAR30 and BR30 3-3/4” diameter</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">PAR38 and BR38 4-3/4” diameter (probably too large and heavy for this use)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">In addition, LED bulbs that give omnidirectional lighting like the conventional incandescent bulb are now available in wattages equivalent to 60 watts and higher.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the A19 style bulb. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Amazon.com’s LED bulbs category<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>has 11,500 items, making selecting LED bulbs very challenging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To make the job easier, I bought these 2 Ecosmart bulbs at Home Depot and 2 Feit Electric bulbs at Costco.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked for the highest wattages and lumens for the lowest price, and also read reviews:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Ecosmart PAR20 daylight (cool color), 8 watts, 50 watt equivalent, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>420 lumens, no. ECS 20 CW FL 120, $21.97</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Feit Electric BR30 soft white (warm color), 13 watts, 65 watt equivalent, 750 lumens, no. BPCEBR30/DM/LED, $17.89</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Ecosmart A19 brilliant white (less warm), 13 watts, 60 watt equivalent, 850 lumens, no. ECS A19 V2 WW 120, $23.97</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Feit Electric A19 soft white (warm), 13.5 watts, 60 watt replacement, 850 lumens, no. BPCEA19/OM800/LED, $15.99</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">My conclusions are that the PAR20 and BR30 bulbs can be used with the Foley machine lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The PAR20 I bought is lower wattage, but the bulb’s focused beam makes up for that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The BR30 provides sufficient light with good distribution of the beam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I prefer the soft/warm color over the daylight/cool color.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s easier to make a cool colored LED, but LED bulbs are now available in a range of colors.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Both A19 bulbs give sufficient light for workshop or home, and the color is a pleasant warm, what we think of as “natural” from an incandescent bulb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because they are designed to give light in all directions, I don’t recommend them for fixtures where floodlights could be substituted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At $15.99 the Feit bulb is a bargain at Costco (I am not a member but went with a friend).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will probably buy more of these soon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">All these bulbs get hot in operation, and have plastic fins which act as heat sinks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></span> </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PAR20 LED</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfR2bKHdYWa1TNAwtJR2Zjpy_IAEqtjeE79-MCi1yW6efEJOVmz6Ci8LpSN8MFOhEopEKu1W3AMxbnUk38mvUYC_xv5FhbiVT1kl57UgrgVn4FlGyt_G3HDwamihWRrab_9hKpCmtt3s/s1600/PAR20_1011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img $ca="true" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfR2bKHdYWa1TNAwtJR2Zjpy_IAEqtjeE79-MCi1yW6efEJOVmz6Ci8LpSN8MFOhEopEKu1W3AMxbnUk38mvUYC_xv5FhbiVT1kl57UgrgVn4FlGyt_G3HDwamihWRrab_9hKpCmtt3s/s320/PAR20_1011.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Light from PAR20 LED</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYosXoeaWoUHQu6bDv2Ig3MfFTHJErXlFVZ1dWLQZKhewZg7z8AiBt3tnU_CMSQDd5wvj_wuh50nHF_UzwSLe8OalfKTmP3lJi07j5InTioLUPt3Yg2OMkiJcn3jr2_7yM4eknXVKWKEw/s1600/BR30_1009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img $ca="true" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYosXoeaWoUHQu6bDv2Ig3MfFTHJErXlFVZ1dWLQZKhewZg7z8AiBt3tnU_CMSQDd5wvj_wuh50nHF_UzwSLe8OalfKTmP3lJi07j5InTioLUPt3Yg2OMkiJcn3jr2_7yM4eknXVKWKEw/s320/BR30_1009.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BR30 LED<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipdTBDx0NRwSYUVBALs842CVmaPBodDUL4ZRJAzOzbFRIkw59Mwrr-ieJUJsHywHjk2ktCGoVFqLcYW9Cj36dBYA2wYQNnIAv0B_NN9mM9s0cLGd-Y3i0CuccRm_V-GEcI077P-O-9OUI/s1600/BR30_1008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img $ca="true" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipdTBDx0NRwSYUVBALs842CVmaPBodDUL4ZRJAzOzbFRIkw59Mwrr-ieJUJsHywHjk2ktCGoVFqLcYW9Cj36dBYA2wYQNnIAv0B_NN9mM9s0cLGd-Y3i0CuccRm_V-GEcI077P-O-9OUI/s320/BR30_1008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Light from BR30 LED</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-29389108856162473592012-07-14T20:06:00.000-04:002012-07-14T20:06:48.749-04:00Replacement Flywheel Handle for F-61 Saw Filer<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">The original handle on the Model 61 saw filer is a small steel one that can be uncomfortable to use frequently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I cleaned up a filer whose handle was damaged, I searched for a plastic substitute, ideally with a sturdy 3/8 inch stud and an internal bearing or bushing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Grainger’s does not have one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Carr Lane makes what they call a revolving handle that looked ideal, but I found something else I could order from Amazon. It’s Custom Accessories’ Heavy Duty Steering Wheel Spinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wheel spinner has a 9mm socket screw that goes through the handle to attach it to a clamp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The screw head is hidden by a threaded plastic cap.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">After removing the flywheel, I drilled out the original handle from the back with a 3/8 inch bit. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I swapped the metric bolt for a 3/8-24 x 2 inch hex bolt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is enough room in the handle’s recess for a deep thinwall socket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I installed the handle with a nut on each side of the flywheel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use a good lock washer, Loctite, or locking nut to keep the handle from coming loose. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpfax1hpUN7RI-oli1TDtv3D66qCdUvnCHG567s8LxfC62f0tmPQRDbYgZ0Jw5xs9rsX0ni5QsTyW3H0woDG76zumM6A7_hqM_ikKRwK70C1wDQ5KHWxsIa7pC1eAMBuT5rhKygE4uurE/s1600/IMG_1014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img $ca="true" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpfax1hpUN7RI-oli1TDtv3D66qCdUvnCHG567s8LxfC62f0tmPQRDbYgZ0Jw5xs9rsX0ni5QsTyW3H0woDG76zumM6A7_hqM_ikKRwK70C1wDQ5KHWxsIa7pC1eAMBuT5rhKygE4uurE/s320/IMG_1014.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEH9VeApZLVQXFpU3_UPcX-WX3OlFG6RUX3A6dg_loWvqrFocfzY5REp_glX_xzb6wZGxFbMP6EPPghtfChtu4-PLNrORAAZ8Zgds4XyWFKxP05ycWCB_a4uJw2soHE-89K0zGa7lGTs/s1600/IMG_1022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img $ca="true" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEH9VeApZLVQXFpU3_UPcX-WX3OlFG6RUX3A6dg_loWvqrFocfzY5REp_glX_xzb6wZGxFbMP6EPPghtfChtu4-PLNrORAAZ8Zgds4XyWFKxP05ycWCB_a4uJw2soHE-89K0zGa7lGTs/s320/IMG_1022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-52340193020854797292012-06-24T17:53:00.002-04:002012-06-24T17:53:28.129-04:00Adding a Switch Box to Model 61 & Older Saw Filers<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Adding a front-mounted switch box will make your Model 61 and earlier filer easier and safer to operate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 1725 rpm motors used on saw filers have a tiny space for a toggle switch and wiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This space is usually too small for a new switch and power cord.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, many motors also have a front knockout sized for ½ inch electrical fittings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This makes it possible to attach a full-sized electrical box with plenty of room for wiring and your choice of a switch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The required parts listed below are readily available:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Rectangular steel box with ½ inch knockouts</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">½ inch box spacer</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Blank cover</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">16 or 14 gauge stranded insulated wire rated for 110-120 volts</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Crimp style terminals</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Toggle switch of sufficient amperage</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">Grounding screw</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">16 or 14 gauge 3 wire power cord with oil resistant cover (the cord from an old power strip or surge protector may be ideal and cheap) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">The steps are:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">1. Be certain that you have all required knowledge and skills necessary; otherwise use an electrician. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition, I recommend that your filer be connected to a GFCI receptacle or breaker at all times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Disconnect the power cord.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">2. Drill the center of the blank cover for the switch you selected.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Install the switch in the cover.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">3. Pry out the knockout on the motor and remove the side cover which holds the old switch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Disconnect the switch and remove the old wiring and power cord, noting which terminals are hot and neutral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the nuts are an odd size, 11/32 inch, so a nut driver this size helps (Sears has them).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">3. Remove the nuts from the box spacer and screw it into the motor’s knockout.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do not over-tighten.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If your motor lacks female threads, use the nut furnished with the box spacer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">4. Turning to the new box, punch out the rear center knockout and a side knockout for the power cord.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Install the grounding screw and a clamp for the power cord.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">5. Use the stranded insulated wire and ring terminals to make connections from the switch to the motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The power cord black wire connects to the switch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another black wire goes from switch to the motor’s hot terminal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The power cord white wire goes to the motor’s neutral terminal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The power cord’s green wire goes to the ground screw in the box, with another green ground wire going the motor housing (not shown in photos).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All connections should be made with ring terminals of the correct size for wire and terminal posts.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial", "sans-serif";">6. After double checking everything, assemble the cover to the box, making sure no bare connections are touching each other or a ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Replace the original cover on the side of the motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ideally this hole should be plugged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Notice the plug on the left side of the box I used (the box was already on hand). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NkyLWNXSAutruJOvxF0wbi-02gnbyg-vbTMbKeGAKNwITKJNqYn_es0n7-jXjfr6kqsVlR-3SETjD44cXOGgJLqMCAihw3x9rHJrr0VQr45AwGmCMYce_Pjekqd-riVEv8-tkK9H7Ao/s1600/IMG_0997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NkyLWNXSAutruJOvxF0wbi-02gnbyg-vbTMbKeGAKNwITKJNqYn_es0n7-jXjfr6kqsVlR-3SETjD44cXOGgJLqMCAihw3x9rHJrr0VQr45AwGmCMYce_Pjekqd-riVEv8-tkK9H7Ao/s320/IMG_0997.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9188181354579803888.post-16358572872093005252012-04-05T21:25:00.002-04:002012-04-05T21:25:48.493-04:00Magnifying glass accessory on Foley Belsaw 387 filer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHHg6rqEEGdpj6diKibmvmHkub0oRvtRo6kHzZuvS9StMIxBVXTR45QEb6omgLs-ikKVzqrSIBRHDvX08CjDa4G7jPz9tT1k_Wb_MAdGK80HBRH9_JtZ9fWwKfa9q749ie4SKEvMdH1UA/s1600/Foley+Belsaw+magnifying+glass.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHHg6rqEEGdpj6diKibmvmHkub0oRvtRo6kHzZuvS9StMIxBVXTR45QEb6omgLs-ikKVzqrSIBRHDvX08CjDa4G7jPz9tT1k_Wb_MAdGK80HBRH9_JtZ9fWwKfa9q749ie4SKEvMdH1UA/s320/Foley+Belsaw+magnifying+glass.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Mark Stansburyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16266882358076529369noreply@blogger.com0