This is a very different hand saw grinder, patented by Byron G. Daggett, in use at a saw shop in Oregon. It uses an abrasive wheel and does both bevels in one pass. It's amazing to watch.
YouTube of Daggett's hand saw sharpener
Byron G. Daggett 1943 patent
Byron G. Daggett 1959 patent
December 25, 2012
December 24, 2012
December 16, 2012
Early Foley Saw Filer
Recently a reader sent photos of a very early Foley filer that came from his great-grandparent's homestead in the American West around 1900. He believes that it was used to sharpen butcher's saws in the ranch's slaughterhouse. It will accommodate a saw blade up to 1-5/8 inch wide and uses approximately a 4 inch file. He disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the filer, and says it cranks smoothly. The filer is missing part of the saw vise, but it shouldn't be difficult to make one. As the last photo shows, the name plate lacks a model or patent number, indicating it's probably the first filer Foley produced. Link to Google Patents for patent application for this machine.
December 10, 2012
The Foley Hammer Saw Set
In 1932 Foley was granted US Patent No. 1,851,773 for a trip hammer saw set. It must not have been a big seller, and appears to be have been expensive to manufacture. Here is additional patent information: Directory of American Tool and Machinery Patents
September 3, 2012
Foley Model 61 Filer Sash Spring Replacement
The Model 61 saw filer have 2 coil springs that provide a recoil to what Foley calls the cam shaft assembly. Apparently this helps maintain the rotary motion. The springs are number 50 on the parts list, and they fit over the vertical slide rods, parts 51 and 52.
These springs can break after 50 years, but replacement is easy. Remove the motor, motor bracket, and flywheel. Then take the wing frame off and place it on a workbench. Remove the set screws at the bottoms of the slide rods. Turn the wing frame upside down and carefully drive the slide rods out with a punch or other tool that won’t damage the rods. The tops of the slide rods are knurled for a force fit, and this prevents the rods from being driven through from the top.
The rods are 5/8” and off-the-shelf 7/8” O.D. x 4” springs were a good fit, but they have a couple fewer coils than the originals. I don’t know the original uncompressed length.
Fit the springs in position, wipe the rods clean, and slide them back in. Use a soft face hammer or center punch to drive the rods the last inch. When they are approximately flush at the top, install the set screws.
While you have the wing frame off, take a look at the slide block on the other side. It’s exactly square, so if it has visible wear it can be rotated a quarter turn to eliminate the free play. The slide block is attached with a reverse-thread shoulder screw. Mine took a little grinding with 400 grit paper to get it to fit. Put plenty of grease on it.
Speaking of grease, the flywheel is the only major bearing without an oil cup, so put grease on the shaft before reinstalling it.
After getting the filer back together, run it by hand enough times to be sure everything’s working correctly.
July 14, 2012
Replacement Flywheel Handle for F-61 Saw Filer
The original handle on the Model 61 saw filer is a small steel one that can be uncomfortable to use frequently. When I cleaned up a filer whose handle was damaged, I searched for a plastic substitute, ideally with a sturdy 3/8 inch stud and an internal bearing or bushing. Grainger’s does not have one. Carr Lane makes what they call a revolving handle that looked ideal, but I found something else I could order from Amazon. It’s Custom Accessories’ Heavy Duty Steering Wheel Spinner. The wheel spinner has a 9mm socket screw that goes through the handle to attach it to a clamp. The screw head is hidden by a threaded plastic cap.
After removing the flywheel, I drilled out the original handle from the back with a 3/8 inch bit. I swapped the metric bolt for a 3/8-24 x 2 inch hex bolt. There is enough room in the handle’s recess for a deep thinwall socket. I installed the handle with a nut on each side of the flywheel. Use a good lock washer, Loctite, or locking nut to keep the handle from coming loose.
June 24, 2012
Adding a Switch Box to Model 61 & Older Saw Filers
Adding a front-mounted switch box will make your Model 61 and earlier filer easier and safer to operate. The 1725 rpm motors used on saw filers have a tiny space for a toggle switch and wiring. This space is usually too small for a new switch and power cord. However, many motors also have a front knockout sized for ½ inch electrical fittings. This makes it possible to attach a full-sized electrical box with plenty of room for wiring and your choice of a switch. The required parts listed below are readily available:
Rectangular steel box with ½ inch knockouts
½ inch box spacer
Blank cover
16 or 14 gauge stranded insulated wire rated for 110-120 volts
Crimp style terminals
Toggle switch of sufficient amperage
Grounding screw
16 or 14 gauge 3 wire power cord with oil resistant cover (the cord from an old power strip or surge protector may be ideal and cheap)
The steps are:
1. Be certain that you have all required knowledge and skills necessary; otherwise use an electrician. In addition, I recommend that your filer be connected to a GFCI receptacle or breaker at all times. Disconnect the power cord.
2. Drill the center of the blank cover for the switch you selected. Install the switch in the cover.
3. Pry out the knockout on the motor and remove the side cover which holds the old switch. Disconnect the switch and remove the old wiring and power cord, noting which terminals are hot and neutral. Many of the nuts are an odd size, 11/32 inch, so a nut driver this size helps (Sears has them).
3. Remove the nuts from the box spacer and screw it into the motor’s knockout. Do not over-tighten. If your motor lacks female threads, use the nut furnished with the box spacer.
4. Turning to the new box, punch out the rear center knockout and a side knockout for the power cord. Install the grounding screw and a clamp for the power cord.
5. Use the stranded insulated wire and ring terminals to make connections from the switch to the motor. The power cord black wire connects to the switch. Another black wire goes from switch to the motor’s hot terminal. The power cord white wire goes to the motor’s neutral terminal. The power cord’s green wire goes to the ground screw in the box, with another green ground wire going the motor housing (not shown in photos). All connections should be made with ring terminals of the correct size for wire and terminal posts.
6. After double checking everything, assemble the cover to the box, making sure no bare connections are touching each other or a ground. Replace the original cover on the side of the motor. Ideally this hole should be plugged. Notice the plug on the left side of the box I used (the box was already on hand).
March 23, 2012
The simplest improvement you can make to any Foley saw filer
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